Barry Castle - East Aberthaw

Ten walkers set off from Barry Castle for an 11.5 mile walk around the Vale of Glamorgan. The first part of the walk led us into Porthkerry Country Park where we followed a footpath that runs alongside the railway tracks through a small wood. Someone had been out cutting a way through this path, as the last time I tried to walk it I didn't get very far before being forced to turn back. After walking through a few fields some in the group were wondering what the footpath would be like where it crosses a stream after the recent rainfall that we have had. The path where it crosses the stream is normally very muddy especially outside of the summer months, the rain had made the mud soft but it was still walkable.

We now started walking uphill through a couple of pasture fields to the main road that goes to the airport. After crossing the road we then made our way to Penmark. At Penmark we stopped in the churchyard for a break. Walked through the village and left it on footpath that took us towards Rhoose before we swung away from Rhoose. After some road walking we followed a path at the bottom of the Kenson valley that takes us towards Fommon Castle. The valley unfortunately has 2 sets of major power lines running through it, which spoils this wild forgotten place. It was full of young cattle that were inquisitive of us. Fortunately the most inquisitive cattle were the other side of the Kenson River that flows through here and they therefore couldn't reach us. We crossed a metal footbridge over the river that led up into the fields where they had recently held the Vale of Glamorgan show. After leaving the Fommon Castle estate we had some more road walking to do to reach East Aberthaw.

At East Aberthaw we walked towards the sea at Pleasant Harbour where we would take lunch on the sea wall behind the salt marsh. This used to be an important harbour for the surrounding area. It is now a nature reserve with a power station attached and plenty of signs warning of snakes. After lunch we trekked up to the top of the cliffs to follow the coast path all the way back to Barry. The first part is contained with Fontygary caravan park, decking has made its impact even here, with most of the static caravans having their own decking. From Fontygary we pass some disused quarries to reach Rhoose point the southern most part of Wales. The quarry here has been turned over to housing.

After Rhoose point the path leads into another caravan park, which takes us to Porthkerry country park. The party split at this point between those who wanted ice cream and those who didn't. We made our separate ways back to the start point.

Longtown - Offas Dyke

Seven walkers set out from the village hall car park on an 11 mile walk around Longtown, taking in part of the Offas Dyke long distance footpath high up on the nearest mountain, and returning to Longtown on part of the Monnow Valley Walk.

The day was overcast and it was trying to rain as we left the car park and headed downhill towards the Olchon Brook which we crossed before we started on our uphill climb to the Offa's Dyke path 400 metres above us. We had a mixture of stiles to cross including a lovely old stone one that an old oak tree trunk had partly grown around. We slowly made our way up, stopping to look at the views on the other side of the valley behind Longtown. We could just about make out Longtown Castle hidden amongst trees and we could see the marquees that had been put up for the Longtown Show, which had happened on Saturday. Luckily for us the village hall was open, as they were putting away the table they had taken for the show, which meant that we were able to use the facilities before starting our walk.

We caught our breath back and had our morning break just below the bracken line with about another 120 metres of ascent to go and to reach the top, along which the Offa's Dyke path runs. On restarting we also had a break from going uphill as we were walking along the contour of the mountain. At the junction with another footpath that had come up hill to join our path we started to climb again. This was a steeper climb and we all took it at our own pace, with all of us stopping to look around us, watching the house martins catching flies. At the top we stopped to admire the view and some of us also took the chance to put a layer of clothing on, as the wind was quite strong and cold. Those of us who had walked an adjacent ridge last week were pointing out to the rest of the group hills where they had walked, also naming the mountains we could see in the distance - Sugar Loaf, Skirrid and the Brecon Beacon range. The heather is flowering and the hills were covered in patches of pink. The path now led us to Hatterrall Hill where we could see a group of wild horses, several of them looked as if they were in foal. As we came around Hatterall Hill we could see Cmwyoy and the spilt where part of the hill slide from away several hundred years ago.

The group now made its way back down from the ridge into the same valley from which they had come, through the bracken which as we went further down the higher and denser it became around us. In the end it was over our heads and we needed to keep together so that we wouldn't lose anyone. Soon we were back into field systems, unfortunately the rain started, we tried to hold off putting our jackets on as we hoped it would blow over. It didn't and we all eventually put out waterproof jackets on, but surprise, surprise no sooner had we done so than the rain stopped although the skies still looked as if it would rain. As we made our way to Oldcastle Court the group were getting restless for their lunch but I wanted to find the path that would avoid us do so much road walking later. Unfortunately the waymarking in this area is not very good and the path disappeared on us, the rest of the group were still asking when was lunch so we stopped in a recently harvested field on the footpath. After lunch I showed them the path we would have taken had a there been a footbridge crossing the river Monnow instead of the half built bridge that is there now. The other sections of the bridge are just left laying on the ground becoming covered in nettles and brambles. This meant a 3 mile diversion along roads to get back onto the original footpath.

Near Walterstone we took the well-marked Monnow Valley footpath that would take us to the village of Clodock. On the way to Clodock we were able to see the route we had taken in the morning. I spotted a dragonfly land in a hedge and I was able to take some photographs of it. It was green with translucent wings that had an orange square on the leading edge of each wing.

At Clodock we walked between the church and the river, the impressive church is covered in scaffolding with a large boarded up hole on one side of it. As we left the village to walk in the fields by the river, swallows were flying low over the fields. We now left the river Monnow and followed the Olchon Brook back to Longtown.

Longtown Recce

Today I was checking out a route of a walk I am leading this weekend. Went fine up till lunchtime, when we discovered that a footbridge we needed to cross was no longer there and there was no way across the river. Oh bugger. So we had lunch looking at the broken bridge. Rethought the route we had to take now, some 3 mile along roads detour to get back onto my original route. It gets worse, to shorten the road walking there were some footpaths that would shorten the detour. Foiled again, unpassable stile in one, no way through another as the path died at a house.

After we rejoined my original planned route we had to cut out another section to keep the walk within the distance I had planned - 10 miles. Thankfully the new route included part of the Monnow Valley Way so we knew we wouldnt have any more problems with stiles or paths just dying out on us.

Looking forward to Sunday now and the real thing.

Gwayre Fawr - Bal Mawr Ridge

We met at the Blaen-y-cwm car park in the Mynydd Du Forest, which is in the Black Mountains. The ten walkers felt the cold of the wind as we got out of the cars, we were not used to it after the recent hot spell. Most immediately put on an extra layer, I didn't have an extra warm layer as I had left it out when I packed my rucksack in the morning as I dithered over whether to take it or not. I knew I would be all right once we got going.

The beginning of the walk followed the road alongside the Grwyne Fawr River to the dam wall of the reservoir. Along the way we spotted a dipper flying past us, and also disturbed a heron which flew upstream a couple of times - just keeping ahead of us - before flying higher up onto the steep sided hill to our right.

At the dam wall we walked up the zigzag path and had our morning break overlooking the reservoir. At this time the low clouds above us were increasingly getting darker and we were starting to think we might have some rain on this walk.

After we had finished our break we carried walking by the side of the reservoir on our way to Rhos Dirion the highest point of our walk today standing at 713m. Its just part of the general moor we were walking towards. As we approached Rhos Dirion you could clearly see how much damage motorbikes are have on this part of the Black Mountains. Luckily for us the dry summer meant that the normally boggy ground around us was dry. Overhead we could now hear and see the gliders from the nearby Gliding club soaring over us. From the trig point we turned south east to walk the long ridge to Bal-Mawr. Before that we stopped to admire the contrasting views to our north of field systems and rolling hills while in all other directions it was the mountains of the Brecon Beacons Nation Park that we could see.

There was a bit of disagreement within the group about when we should have lunch some were infavour of an early lunch while the majority wanted to carry on walking as it was a long walk and we hadn't reached the half way point yet.

As we walked the ridge towards Bal-Mawr we came upon Border Stones - looking for all the world very much like gravestones - laying flat on the ground. The views were great, you could see all the way down to the Severn Estuary.

We finally spotted the Blacksmith's Anvil stone in the ground, its very small, no wonder we have missed it previously. I was having problems with my camera, so not many pictures to choose from. The light seemed very indistinct and the camera was having problems focusing, damn auto-focus, must learn to shoot pictures without it.

The ridge leading up to the disused Chwarel y Fan Quarry looks higher than Rhos Dirion because it's a proper ridge not a broad track. On we trekked to Bal-Mawr with the wind at our back and sun on our faces enjoying the views. From Bal-Mawr we dropped down to the pile of stones where we would leave this path and make our way back to Mynydd Du forest. On the footpath running parallel with the forest we spotted tadpoles in a muddy pool.

We now had to go through some fields before entering the forestry, unfortunately they were full of very tall bracken with no discernable footpath to be seen. We kept to the footpath that was above the bracken and the path was clear till we came to a sheepfold and entered the field here. We made our way gingerly through the bracken as we ended up walking on what seemed like an old boundary wall before we found the stile to enter the forestry. From this path it was a short walk back to the cars.

We have walked this route before but in reverse to today's route and I must say that it is a much better walk the way it was done today.

The Lonely Shepherd

Saturday 6th August 2006

We met in the village of Llanelly for a 10 mile walk. Before we started on the actual walk we visited the churchyard to see two crosses that have some historical significance for the village.

The first is a large rugged cross that has a carved dog sitting at its base. It was done for an army officer. The second is as large but is ornately decorated and is surrounded by low cast iron railing with the pattern of the carving repeated in the design on the railings.

The seven walkers then left the village church of Llanelly to walk to an old disused quarry and its landmark called the 'Lonely Shepherd' via fields and old green lanes which are becoming overgrown and whose walls are falling down in places.

The last green lane led onto bracken covered open space, near a gas pipe pumping station. The last time I was here they were just finishing off laying the pipes to the pumping station. As we took a rough track up towards the Lonely Shepherd at Darren Disgwylfa we stopped to admire the views and also to catch our breath.

At the lonely shepherd we stopped for morning break after which we carried on around the side of the hill following a footpath which broadened out into an old tram track. We left this old track to make our way to the trig point and cairns at Hen Dy-aderyn, we had to adjust out route to make sure that we walked to a break in the fencing which the pipe laying company has left behind. At the trig point someone at placed a sheep's skull on top of it. Looking to the north the trig point provides fine views of the surrounding hills including Sugar Loaf, Pen Cerrig-calch and further in the distance Castell Dinas.

Heading north we rejoined a footpath that goes to the disused quarries at Darren Cilau where adults were showing children how to rock climb. From here we then walked along a fairly flat footpath into the nature reserve of Craig y Cilau with its rare trees and other plants. The nature reserve also has a series of caves - Eglwys Faen and Agen Allwedd - the entire cave system stretches for 18 miles. We stopped for lunch below one of the main caves before venturing into the largest cave to have a quick look, going no further 20 feet into it. The temperature difference was really noticeable and as I walked out of the cave my glasses immediately steamed up which forced me to stop, and wait for my glasses to clear, as the path down from the cave is steep and well warn.

The nature reserve is one of the hidden jewels of this area well hidden from and may it remain so. We didn't walk further into it today but walked back along the footpath we came in on. This path then turned into a very minor road, which led us back to the gas pipeline station. It had been mostly cloudy up to this point but now the sun was fully beaming down upon us and we could feel the temperature rising. From here we retraced our steps back to Llanelly.

It was between 9 and 10 miles long with some rough moorland stretches. A walk with good views that needs good visibility especially on Mynydd Pen-cyrn unless you are used to navigating with a map and compass.

Cowesby - North Yorkshire Moors

Saturday 29 July 2006

From Cowesby church whose roof is falling in and restoration work is scheduled - we walked a short section of road before walking a footpath through woodland. The short section of this footpath has been turned into a muddy road by forestry clearance vehicles, thankfully it has been so dry that the mud was very hard and we stayed mud free. As we continued climbing up towards the moorland the woods changed into more deciduous woodland. We emerged out of the wood at Steeple Cross to meet the Cleveland Way Long distance footpath.

Keeping to the edge of the forestry we walked alongside a newly rebuilt stone wall till the path went back into the wood. As we came out of the wood back onto moorland, we saw our only walkers for the day. We were looking for a bridleway to our east that would eventually lead us to Hawnby. All along this stretch of path, butterflies were settling in front of us on the path, but nearly every time I was ready to take a photo of them they flew away. We saw Peacocks, Red Admirals, Painted Ladies and Small Tortoiseshell butterflies and the caterpillars of the Six Spotted Burnet moth.

As we found our next path a sign had blown off the gate warning us of extreme fire hazard ahead and saying that the open access areas were out of bounds but as the public rights of way were not affected we carried on. In the field next to the path a combine harvester was working its way around the field gathering the wheat up. Two tractors with trailers were also in the field waiting for the combine to unload the wheat into them. As we passed the end of this field two curlews flew up in front of making warning calls, trying to distract us from their nest, one of them even landed and pretended to be hurt by dragging one of its wings across the ground.

Starting to feel hungry now, as we had been walking for a few hours so we had lunch in a field near Noddle End, tomato and olive bread with cheese and pork pie shared equally between us.

After lunch the field led to the edge of a hill where we followed the path to an abandoned house (Gowerdale House), whose windows have recently been smashed. It’s a fine looking house, but it has only a field track leading to it.

Stayed on the track rather than take a footpath as the area isn't well walked, and we didn’t have any tools with us to cut back brambles and nettles, the track led to the road to Hawnby. We crossed the temporary metal bridge outside the village after the old stone bridge had been swept away in a torrential rainstorm a few years ago.

We had a lovely cup of tea in the post office garden. As we left the village the clouds were building up and we wondered if it was going to rain. We hoped not as we now had our steepest and longest climb of the day walking the road towards Arden Hall (17th Century) to take an old drovers way back to the moorland passing disused quarries along the way. As we approached the top of the hill light rain started to fall, we thought it would blow over quickly as the sky was quite bright around us and we could see some blue sky in the distance from where the rain was coming from.

The drovers track led us back to the Cleveland Way. We stayed on the Cleveland Way for 500 meters to join another bridle path, which followed a route overlooking Kepwick Hall. Had a stop another here and was able to see all the way over to Pen Y Gent in the distance and closer to us Thirsk, North Allerton.

The path then led us to Black Hill above the village of Kepwick. Missed the bridle path dropping down the side of Atley Hill, so had to look for another way down, so an old track which led us to rejoin the path to Cowesby. Atley Hill was overflowing with rabbits, you had to watch where you put your feet as there were so many rabbit holes. We lost count of the number of rabbits we saw on the hill and in the field below it. Walked along an old green lane to reach the village and our car. Had been out for almost seven hours so must have walked between 12-14 miles.

A very enjoyable walk.

Youlgreave - Peak District

Sunday 30 July 2006

From the 15th century church tower in the village of Youlgreave we walked down to the river Bradford, crossed the stone sleeper type bridge to join the Limestone Way footpath heading for the standing stones below Robin Hoods Stride. As we climbed towards the Robin Hoods Stride we saw more walkers in the first 10 minutes than we whole of Saturdays walk.

Break was taken admiring the stride and its nearby standing stones.

We carried on the limestone way downhill to the road where we then took a footpath that would take us to village of Birchover (which is famous for its lead mining industry). Passed a lovely vicarage with a large well-maintained garden with pond, which surprisingly was much bigger than its church. Walking through the Birchover we passed more walking groups out for a Sunday hike. On leaving the village a convoy of old tractors passed us by, with a very jolly man waving to us from the last tractor.

Our next village stop was Winster. The footpath to Winster had at some point in the distance past been laid with stone slabs where the boggiest parts would be. No need to worry about bogs for us in this dry spell.

In Winster the Market Hall has been restored by the National Trust, and has a display explaining the recent history of the village from the 17century onwards. It has some splendid houses which were built on the back of the success of the lead mines. The last lead mine shut in 1936 but it had declined to almost nothing well before then.

From the church in Winster we walked through a field with very young calves in it, we had to pass between the cows and the calves, so we walked very gingerly but the cows were more interested in eating the grass than us. It took us on to re-meet the Limestone Way and from here head towards the village of Elton.

Time for lunch, which was taken in a cafe in Elton, bacon sandwiches the order of the day along with pots of tea. We ate outside and had an Alsatian dog on one side of us and a another large dog on the other side of us. Both dogs were very well behaved.

From Elton we walked through Oddo House farm, the smell was horrendous, we were all gagging on the smell. Think it was from pigs, had to walk along side a huge slurry pit which showed signs of leakage. Glad to walk upwind of the farm. From here we walked down to the valley floor of Gratton Dale with its steep sides. It started to rain here. We tried not to stop and put our rain gear on, but the rain was too heavy. We were walking a dogleg around Gratton Moor. The rain stopped and the cloud broke up. After climbing out of the valley we stopped for a quick break to eat the apples I had been carrying. Some so-called walkers were upset because we had taken their rest stop, could hear them talking about it.

The footpath then led through some fields onto a road for a short spell before joining a footpath that seemed to follow the bed of a stream, dry in these conditions, but probably impassable in wet weather. We then walked though pastureland to re-meet the river Bradford and a lovely footpath along side the river. We watched the young moorhens and coots scurrying along the banks and could see lots of trout in the river ponds. We also spotted Dippers and Grey Wagtails (I think) and unfortunately a man urinating in the river.

The river took us back to the point where we crossed over the bridge at the start of the walk and we made our way up hill to the car.

A very different type of walk from yesterday, it was about 12 miles in length.